Problem #1: It took me an hour on the phone to Summit just to figure out how the thing is supposed to work because the hardware that came with the kit was so bootsy. (Not a good way to start the project...)
Click on the thumbnail to view a larger image - 1600 x 1200. All of these photos were taken by me with a Nikon Coolpix 800
July 17th through August 3rd, 2003
The Definitive Autolite 2100 AMC / Jeep 258 Swap Guide
(and consequently - the definitive emissions equipment deletion guide)
If you own an Eagle or Jeep and have to ask "Why swap a 2100?", then you haven't driven it much. The stock Carter BBD feedback carburetor is a flaming pile of convoluted crap - period. There are 10,000 pages dedicated to how badly this carb sucks, so I won't make it 10,001...
I am not a pioneer when it comes to this particular swap. MANY before me have done it, and I'm sure everyone has made their various changes to what was advised or recommended to them. In my case, I used the write up by Tim Martin (whom I emailed awhile back - very nice guy) hosted at www.cjoffroad.com as my baseline. Tim's installation guide is fairly complete and would probably work for most folks without trouble. However (per usual), it didn't work out too well for me. As an added frustration to my project, I wanted a higher level of atheistic charm than Tim's install, which translated into a few custom parts, and a TON of looking and scratching my head when it came to the linkage. If you're not a handy fabricator, Tim has a very simple, though Spartan, way to adapt the stock linkage to the Autolite.
When choosing which 2100 to use of the several varieties out there, most people recommend the Autolite / Motorcraft 2100 off of a 70s Ford or AMC product with the 1.08 (supposedly a 270 cfm) venturi casting number on the side. I threw caution to the wind and used a 1.23 (supposedly a 600 cfm) venturi carb, plus I didn't know any better when I bought it. This turned out very good for me. Mine doesn't blow black smoke, doesn't hesitate, and has killer throttle response.
Before you even think of starting this project, at least on an Eagle, remove the hood. You'll be a much happier and taller person at the end of the day. The wiper motor is out in these pictures as a side effect of the Clifford valve cover install and it is not necessary to remove it for the carb swap.
If you have any questions feel free to contact me at maxwelhse@maxwelhse.com
Parts you'll need if you want to do exactly what I did:
Autolite 2100 from a '78 Crown Vic 351W. I got it on Ebay for $30 or $40 as I recall, and that's what the seller said it came off of. That was a couple of years ago and they seem to have gotten much cheaper.
Walker Carburetor rebuild kit - Got it at AutoZone for $15 or so.
Fuel Filter - Purolator from AutoZone, $2 or so
Adapter Plate - TD Performance Products TRD-2086 $13 from Summit. This is the only adapter that Summit carries for this application.
4 Barrel Style Air Cleaner - Edelbrock EDL-1002 foam element air cleaner - $17 from Summit (aka - the cheapest thing I could find). This particular one fits the top of the 2100 VERY tight, and requires some elbow grease to install. Also, due to the close proximity of the brake booster you are limited to a maximum size of 9" if you want to go with a round filter.
$30 worth of assorted stuff from the hardware store and Napa. Including (this isn't everything, but I KNOW you need this stuff):
3 5/16" x 18 x 1" bolts
1 5/16" x 18 x 1.5" bolt
4 5/16" x 18 nuts
4 5/16" flat washers
4 5/16" x 18 x 1" cap screws
3 8x32x3/4" cap screws (if you ever want to adjust your choke again)
1 5/32" x ??? x 3/4" (I think...)
1 5/8" x whatever x 1" (Get this in grade 5, not stainless - you'll see...)
Small section of 14 gauge or heavier sheet metal (10"x10" should be fine) for spring return bracket and throttle bracket. Or you can substitute 1/8" thick aluminum plate for the throttle bracket if you want.
Small section of 1/4" mild steel plate (4" x 4" should do ya) for EGR block off plate
EGR vacuum solenoid gasket (you'll need this even if you don't opt for the block off)
Some cutting oil (for the EGR plate. 1/4" is pretty thick for my old school Delta band saw...)
Brake Parts Cleaner (or equivalent)
180 Grit Aluminum Oxide cloth (or equivalent)
Some sandable primer
Some engine paint (I use Tempro brand)
24 COLD Beers (And I mean COLD!!! - 33 Degrees Fahrenheit)
I would, and did, use all stainless hardware. At the very least stainless and aluminum have very similar thermo-expansion characteristics so that should help prevent thread bind. Plus it looks cool and won't get all rusty.
So, you're looking at about $100 worth of stuff to do the swap. Not too shabby.
Tools you'll need that may or may not be in every shop (to do exactly what I did):
Band Saw
Bench Grinder (or some huge files and lots of free time)
Air Powered Cut-Off wheel (unless you really like your hacksaw...)
Welder (in my case it was a TIG and a friend did it for me)
Oxyacetylene torch (to heat your aluminum or metal for easier bending - mainly important if you're using aluminum)
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| The TD Performance kit. The only things I used from the kit
were the gaskets and the adapter itself, the rest of the crap got thrown
out.
Problem #1: It took me an hour on the phone to Summit just to figure out how the thing is supposed to work because the hardware that came with the kit was so bootsy. (Not a good way to start the project...) |
The "bottom" (intake) of the adapter for this
application.
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The "top" (carburetor).
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| There it is sitting on the manifold... Those studs need to
come out.
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Use a 5/16" x 24 stud arbor to remove the studs. This stud remover/installer kit happens to be made by Snap-On, and I'm sure it was salty (Dad's tools strike again). Harbor Freight tools sells a kit identical to it for about $20. Definitely a good investment. Anyhow, if that's outside of your budget then you can just jam 2 5/16" x 24 nuts together to back the studs out. | The other side of the stud remover/installer kit. It slides
over the arbor and screws onto it.
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| The end of the arbor that screws into the tool.
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The arbor and tool screwed onto a stud.
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Tighten the top bolt of the tool (clockwise) while holding the bottom stationary. Using a ridiculously long wrench is optional. |
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| Turn the studs out, counter-clockwise, with the wrench. | There ya go. No stud. You can see that it's in the tool. | FIRST BLOOD! |