Click on the thumbnail to view a larger image - 1600 x 1200. All of these photos were taken by me with a Nikon Coolpix 800

July 17th through August 3rd, 2003

The Definitive Autolite 2100 AMC / Jeep 258 Swap Guide

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Excellent...

 

 If you happen to get too aggressive about tighting the stud tool onto the stud (like I did), you'll need the arbor for the other end to get it out of the 5/16" x 24 arbor. The other side is 5/16" x 18. See what I mean?

 
All done! 

 

 

 Clean the gasket surface. I used some 180 grit aluminum oxide paper, then some brake clean on a rag to clean off any sand/metal shavings.

Surprisingly the surface wasn't too dirty. 

 Problem #2: On my Ford application carb the little screws on the bottom wouldn't let the carb seat all the way down. To the bench grinder Batman!
MUCH better...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Problem #3: The screws provided in the TD kit were malformed! Meaning the heads weren't centered on the shaft of the screw. So... I decided to use stainless cap screws (I knew noting the size of the intake threads would pay off) instead. However, the holes in the TD plate where so small that the cap screw heads wouldn't even fit! Back to the bench grinder! As I recall, I used 5/16" x 18 x 1" cap screws.

Problem #4: Since the TD kit is actually designed to be used to adapt a small carb to a big intake (what fool would want to do that?), you're expected to use the intake manifold studs to hold the carb on with a nut on each side. I decided that doing such would look WAY too ghetto (hey, I'm trying to undo the ghettoification of this car), so I took some stainless 5/16" x 1" bolts and ground down on them so they would smack flush into the bottom of the TD (which, as I recall, was made for 1/4" hardware but had holes big enough for 5/16" - as well as the carb). Basically I installed some poor man's studs permanently into the plate.

Problem #5: That little square vacuum T splitter hit the throttle linkage - badly. It had to leave.

 To remove the T splitter you have to remove the EGR vacuum switch. While I was there, I made an EGR block off plate on the band saw. It was pretty simple. I just used the old gasket as a pattern and bought a new gasket for it before I installed it. $3 at Napa I think - in stock even.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
While I was at Napa I picked up a straight nipple for the vacuum block that I took off and put a plug in the intake manifold where the thermo-switch for the EGR system used to be - hence the coolant in all the remaining pictures. (Leaving the original switch there won't hurt anything, but mine was leaking and it looked stupid - so it left).

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