Click on the thumbnail to view a larger image - 1600 x 1200. All of these photos were taken by me with a Nikon Coolpix 800

July 17th through August 3rd, 2003

The Definitive Autolite 2100 AMC / Jeep 258 Swap Guide

Page 4
This is the first time the carb ran on the car - no linkage or anything yet. I recommend you do the same so you can make sure you're not just wasting your time 

Problem #7: Although I didn't get any pictures I cut the factory throttle balls off of the Autolite and modified its linkage a bit more. I did this for 2 reasons:

1.) The Autolite had it's throttle cable mount on the outside of the linkage (as is normal of most carbs), but if I ran the cable directly up to it on that side it would have hit the power booster. Plus I didn't have enough cable to get there. 

2.) With the lower ball hole open I have a perfect place to mount my return spring. 

 So in short the Autolite throttle ball was removed, it's hole now holds the return springs, and an upper hole that was empty now has a screw in Mr. Gasket throttle ball installed in it. (I paid a fortune for the Mr. Gasket "box" of stuff... Sunday afternoon... Summit sells them for $5/ea.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 A shot from the windshield.

Note: After this day of work, I installed new heater core/manifold hoses. I installed a 90 degree adapter at the heater core so the rear hose wouldn't loop-da-loop around the valve cover anymore. Hence the black hoses from here on out.

 

 

 

 

 
I think this was once upon a time part of an AIR system, but it was long gone when I got the car. So, to plug it I used a 5/8" x 1" bolt and a bunch of exhaust sealer stuff. I originally just wanted a conduit or pipe cap that I could clamp on to it but I couldn't find anything on Sunday afternoon, so this is what I came up with.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This was harder than it looks. To get the thing to start threading I had to take it to the bench grinder and taper it down at the end by about 1/8" total for about half the length of the bolt. Then in the 3" that I had to swing a hammer I smacked it a few times, then I got a gorilla bar on it and pushed it in a bit... Slowly but surely it started taking thread. I think it actually cracked that little pipe going in, but I really don't care since this is just a band aid until I can afford a header.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The throttle bracket in all its glory. That's a 2 piece aluminum bracket that utilizes the factory throttle cable, but none of the goofy bottom pulling linkage. Engineering and fabricating that part took most of a day, but now I've got it down to where I could do them pretty easily.

This was made by mocking up the design with card board until I got things close. Then the aluminum was cut to a rough pattern, the mounting holes drilled, heated a bit with the torch, and bent to a rough angle. After it was on the car the final angle adjustments (whacking with a hammer) were made and the cross support was fabricated and welded in.

This bracket is a prototype. The welds aren't the best (it was my friend's first time out with his TIG) and it has no accommodation for an automatic transmission kick down or cruise control (my car has neither). The entire reason I made it out of aluminum is so my buddy could play with his new toy. No other reason (but it is very light).
It's upside down in this picture. The Y area is where the throttle cable press fits into it. AMC used a press fit for the stock assembly so a press fit is good enough for me. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This is the throttle return spring bracket. This represents about an  hour of looking around, thinking things over, and general "eyeball" engineering. Again, I made a card board template and went to work. I made this part out of ~14 gauge steel instead of aluminum though because I wanted the added strength. I mean, who cares if the throttle bracket flexes a little bit or even brakes, but I care plenty about the return springs... 

The larger hole fits around the front-most "carb stud" (which had to be replaced with a longer 5/16" x 1.5" bolt to accommodate) and the smaller hole aligns with a stock threaded hole in the Autolite that I didn't even know was threaded until I was about to drill it out...  I used yet another stainless cap screw for the small hole. I can't recall the size... I think it was 5/32, but I really can't remember. Just take your carb with you to the hardware store. That's what I did.

 

 The other end is where the springs attach. I used dual springs from Napa... $3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All installed!

Note: If you happen to get a heat stove type choke on your 2100 like I did, fear not! The electric choke spring from the BBD is a direct bolt up to the Autolite. Just swap 'em over.

 

 

Ok. This picture should make what I was talking about before a bit more clear. You can see where the throttle mounts and where the spring goes. Lots of cut off wheel time was spent getting that to work right.

 

 

If you really want you can use the stock return spring and bracket from an Autolite 2100 or 4100 if:

1.) You can find one. I tried for 3 hours at the junk yard.. No luck.

2.) You really want this crap on your car (I didn't know that this is what it was when I was looking. It didn't matter since I found NOTHING anyhow):

If so, you can order it through: www.ponycarbs.com

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

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